FXR Archive
Known Issues

Known Issues

#1

Late 1984 inner primary bearing leak

Late 1984 only

Late 1984 was the first year of the wet clutch on the FXR, and owners still chase primary oil weeping out behind the clutch where the mainshaft comes through the inner primary. Check the cheap thing first. In 1985 Harley told dealers that some late 1984 bikes left the factory with no vent flat on one clutch pushrod. That blocks the primary vent and makes the bearing look guilty. If the vent is fine, look at the bearing: a shielded ball bearing with no separate lip seal. A fresh bearing set with retaining compound is the factory style fix. A rubber sealed bearing of the same size is an owner option that closes one of the three ways oil gets past, but not the other two.

Symptoms

  • Primary oil weeping from behind the clutch, where the mainshaft comes through the inner primary.
  • The oil seems to come from the outer or inner edge of the inner primary bearing.
  • Starts as a damp spot and gets worse over weeks or months.

Cause

Check the vent first. Harley Service Letter ML-271 (Technical Tips, July 31, 1985), item 9, says the inner primary vents through the mainshaft and out the transmission vent by way of a flat ground along the clutch pushrods, and that a small percentage of late 1984 bikes had no flat on the pushrod closest to the adjuster. The leak then seems to come from the outside or inside of the inner primary bearing (H-D Service Letter ML-271, 1985). The bearing itself: the late 1984 inner primary (housing 60662-84) carries the mainshaft on a ball bearing with no lip seal (1984 FXRS primary housing fiche; V-Twin Forum, late 84 mainshaft leak). Dealers list bearing 8980, now obsolete from Harley, as the late 1984 FLT and FXR primary housing bearing (eHarleyParts, bearing 8980); the 1984 fiche shows 8975. Both are the standard 6205 size, 25 x 52 x 15 mm (WWAG, Big Twin mainshaft bearings). Whether 8975 and 8980 are one part renumbered or two fitments is unverified, and so is the 8980's closure: a current catalog lists it as 2 shield (V-Twin catalog, Big Twin primary page), while an old cross reference list posted on HD Forums calls it a sealed bearing (HD Forums, bearing cross reference; unverified). The 1985 fiche shows a new housing (60662-85A) with roller bearing 9135, lip seal 12052C and two snap rings 60678-85 (1985 FXRS primary housing fiche). A forum post quoting the factory manual says the sealed bearing, held in with Loctite 601, was used on "84 and early 85" models (HD Forums, "Lowrider woes").

Fixes

  • Check the pushrod vent flat first. Remove the clutch cover, release the adjuster screw, take out the snap ring and adjuster block, and pull the clutch pushrod. If it has no flat, grind one along its full length. Harley's drawing shows a pushrod about 0.371 to 0.378 in. across with a flat about 0.160 in. wide (H-D Service Letter ML-271, 1985).
  • Make sure nothing else blocks the vent. A dry clutch hub nut with a seal in it (early 1984 and Shovelhead style) closes the same path, so do not fit one with a wet clutch (HD Forums, "Primary Vent"; V-Twin Forum, late 84 mainshaft leak).
  • Know the three ways oil gets past the bearing: through the bearing itself, under the inner race along the shaft, and around the outer race if the bore is loose. A full fix covers all three: a bearing that seals, a thin film of sealant between the shaft and the inner race, and a tight bore with retaining compound (HD Forums, "Lowrider woes"; V-Twin Forum, late 84 mainshaft leak). A blocked vent pushes oil through all three.
  • Factory style: a good quality 6205 size bearing of the 8980 type, retained in the housing with retaining compound (HD Forums, "Lowrider woes"). One experienced owner also puts a little sealant on the shaft so oil cannot creep under the inner race (V-Twin Forum, late 84 mainshaft leak).
  • Sealed option: a rubber sealed 6205-2RS closes the path through the bearing. Examples in this size are SKF 6205-2RSH, NTN 6205LLU, NSK 6205DDU, Koyo 6205 2RS and Twin Power BC-6205-2RS, which Twin Power lists for 1984 FXR models (SKF 6205-2RSH; NTN 6205LLUC3; NSK catalog E1103; Koyo 6205 2RS; Twin Power BC-6205-2RS). The catch: it runs on its own grease for life, an off the shelf 6205 can be a light press fit on the mainshaft instead of a slip fit, which makes the inner primary harder to pull later (HD Forums, "Where's my primary bearing inner race?"), and it does nothing for a worn shaft, a loose bore or a blocked vent. There is no late 1984 kit, and we found no long term owner reports unverified.
  • Check the fit. If the bearing is loose in the aluminum housing, the bore needs welding and re-boring; if the shaft is worn more than about .002 in, replace the mainshaft (HD Forums, "Lowrider woes"; forum figure, unverified).
  • Machining the late 1984 housing to take a separate lip seal is done by some shops, but we found no published kit or writeup, so treat it as custom work unverified. On 1985 and later bikes the seal runs on the pressed-on inner race, so the seal has to suit whatever surface it will ride on.
  • A 1985 or later inner primary is not a known bolt-on swap. Forum posts say the late 1984 housing fits only late 1984, the 1985 part was a one year design, and 1986 changed again unverified.
  • Tools: JIMS lists its No. 967 inner primary bearing and seal tool for late 1984 to 2006 FXST and 1985 to 2006 FXR, so not for a late 1984 FXR (JIMS No. 967 instructions).
  • Rule out the neighbors too: an overfilled transmission puking out its vent just above this spot, the main drive gear seal, and the inner primary bolts. Dye in the transmission oil tells the two oils apart (V-Twin Forum, 1985 FXRS primary leak; V-Twin Forum, gear oil into primary).

Sources

#2

Tapered vs splined transmission mainshaft

1982 to 1989

Short version: splined wins. From 1990 on, the FXR transmission mainshaft is splined, and the clutch hub slides onto the splines and stays locked there. Every FXR from 1982 to 1989 has the older tapered mainshaft. The clutch hub is pressed onto a taper, lined up by a small key and held only by one nut. Get the taper clean and the nut torqued right and it holds. Get it wrong, or pile on power, and the hub cracks at the keyway, the key shears and the hub spins, chewing up the shaft. The weak link is the late 1984 to 1989 diaphragm clutch hub. On a tapered bike, fit a good hub and torque it to the book. The permanent cure is to go splined.

Symptoms

  • Drive slips or cuts out even though the clutch plates are fine, because the hub has come loose and is turning on the shaft.
  • With the outer primary off: a crack at the keyway end of the clutch hub, or a hub that moves on the shaft.
  • A sheared or mushroomed key, and a chewed up taper or keyway on the mainshaft.
  • A clutch hub that comes off without a puller. A good one has to be pulled.

Cause

On every FXR from 1982 to 1989 the clutch hub sits on a tapered transmission mainshaft with a Woodruff key and a left hand thread nut. Harley's Tech Tips for August 1989 told dealers that for 1990 the 1340 mainshaft "no longer has a taper, its a straight spline" (H-D Tech Tips #17, Aug 1989). The parts fiche matches: the 1989 FXR lists mainshaft 35042-85 with clutch key 37523-85 and hub 37550-84A, and the 1990 FXR lists mainshaft 35042-90 and hub 37550-90A with no key (1989 FXR transmission gears fiche; 1990 FXR transmission gears fiche; 1990 FXR clutch fiche). On a taper, the grip of the taper carries the power and the key mostly lines things up, so the taper must be clean and dry and the nut at the right torque (HarleyTechTalk, "Clutch hub nut"). There are two FXR hubs. 1982 to early 1984 dry clutch bikes use hub 37550-41B, the four speed style hub that owners describe as steel; the late 1984 to 1989 diaphragm clutch uses 37550-84A, a steel center in an aluminum hub (1982 FXR clutch fiche; 1984 FXR clutch fiche, early 1984; 1984 FXR clutch fiche, late 1984; V-Twin catalog, Big Twin clutch hub page; V-Twin Forum, confused on tapered trans; V-Twin Forum, "clutch hub broken"). Owners call 37550-84A the weak link. It cracks at the thin wall by the keyway and loses its clamp on the taper, then the key shears and the shaft gets damaged. A key that slides back and sits proud as the hub goes on, or an overtightened nut, can crack it too (V-Twin Forum, confused on tapered trans; V-Twin Forum, "Broken Clutch hub-reason?"; V-Twin Forum, "clutch hub broken"). Owners say the early steel hubs hold up well (V-Twin Forum, confused on tapered trans; unverified). Related, but not this issue: the same 1990 notes record the Evo pinion shaft in the engine changing from a taper to a straight shaft with a T shaped key (H-D Tech Tips #17, Aug 1989).

Fixes

Sources

#3

Charging system: stator and regulator

All years

FXRs through 1988 have a 22 amp charging system. 1989 and later have 32 amps. Either one will flatten the battery once the stator, regulator or the plug between them starts to go. Test before you buy parts: a charged battery, about 13.2 to 15 volts at the battery with the engine running, then the stator AC output, resistance and short to ground, then the regulator. To get 32 amps on an early bike, change the stator, rotor and regulator as a set.

Symptoms

  • Battery goes flat, or will not stay charged.
  • Low voltage at the battery with the engine running.
  • Dim lights at idle.

Cause

Stock output was 22 amps on 1981 to 1988 Big Twins and 32 amps from 1989 (Rider, "Charge it"). Failures come from a stator that is shorted to ground or open, a failed regulator, or a bad connection at the stator plug (RevZilla, charging system test). Owners report that the older 22 amp rotors have a round bore and can loosen on the shaft, while 32 amp rotors are splined (HD Forums, 22 to 32 amp upgrade; unverified).

Fixes

Sources

#4

Stator plug failure

Evo, 1984 to 1994 and CVO

The plug where the regulator connects to the front of the crankcase is a classic weak spot. It works loose with vibration, arcs, gets hot and can start wicking primary oil. You might see charging that comes and goes, or a plug that looks cooked. If it is only loose, clean the pins, make sure the plug seats all the way, use dielectric grease and fit a retainer clip. If it is burnt, plan on a new stator.

Symptoms

  • Charging cuts in and out, often with vibration.
  • Plug looks heat damaged or melted, rubber gone soft.
  • Oil wicking out at the plug.

Cause

The plug works loose and arcs. Heat hardens and degrades the rubber and the pins on the stator side, and the plug can wick primary oil (HD Forums, "Stator plug issue?"). The forum reports here are from 1989 and similar Evo Big Twins; exactly which FXR years use this molded plug is unverified.

Fixes

Sources

#5

Shovelhead FXR external oil lines

1982 to 1983 (Shovelhead)

The first FXRs, 1982 and 1983, ran the Shovelhead. Early 1982 engines have external oil lines between the rocker boxes and the tappet blocks. They were a quick fix to drain oil out of the top end. Later in 1982 Harley changed several internal parts and dropped the lines. If you have an early engine with the lines, leave them on unless every later part has been fitted. On any Shovel FXR, expect to chase the usual Shovel stuff: top end and base leaks, valve guides, the breather, charging and ignition.

Symptoms

  • Early 1982 engines: external oil lines from the rocker area to the tappet blocks.
  • Without working drain-back: over-oiled top end, oil leaks and smoke.

Cause

According to a forum member, the earlier engines had trouble with over-oiling and the rocker boxes not draining, and the external lines fixed that for the short term. Later 1982 engines got a revised oil seal, rocker cover oil line fittings, crankpin, pressure relief valve and oil pump cover, and the lines were dropped (HD Forums, 82 Shovelhead oil lines). The poster gives a starting crankcase number for the change, which we have not checked against Harley literature unverified.

Fixes

  • On an early 1982 engine, keep the external lines and fittings unless all of the later parts are fitted together (HD Forums, 82 Shovelhead oil lines).
  • General Shovel FXR checks from a buyer's guide: rocker box, lifter block, base gasket and primary leaks, valve guides, breather, oil pump, cam and pinion bushings, charging and ignition (Moto Gallery, Shovelhead FXR guide).

Sources

#6

Evo top end oil weeps

1984 to 1994 and CVO

Evo motors are tough, but they like to weep oil at the cylinder bases, the head gaskets and the three piece rocker boxes. Harley changed gasket materials in the early 1990s to fix crush and sealing, and later base gaskets fit the earlier motors. Rocker box leaks often come from a warped middle section, so check each piece on a sheet of glass before you put in new gaskets. If you have the top end off, do both base gaskets while you are there.

Symptoms

  • Oil at the cylinder base, often the rear cylinder.
  • Oil at the head to cylinder joint.
  • Oil around the rocker boxes.

Cause

Rider lists Kevlar base gaskets and graphite head gaskets for 1991 (Rider, Sep 2017). Harley Tech Tips #30 (July 1992) says a new base gasket, 16774-86C, went into production after May 1992 for better crush resistance and sealing, and can be fitted to all earlier Evos (H-D Tech Tips #30, July 1992). Harley later recommended the printed paper base gasket 16774-86D for all 1984 to 1999 Evo Big Twins (H-D Tech Tip TT254, Aug 2006). Rocker box gaskets often fail because one section, most often the middle one, is warped (HD Forums, "Rocker Box Oil Leak").

Fixes

Sources

#7

The FXR wobble: swingarm bushings and isolators

All years

If your FXR feels loose or starts to weave at highway speed, look at the swingarm first. The stock rubber Clevebloc bushings and the two swingarm isolators let the rear wheel steer a little as the rubber mounted motor moves. When they are worn it gets worse. The usual fix is two new isolators plus a bearing kit for the swingarm pivot. Check the stabilizer links and the other mounts while you are in there.

Symptoms

  • Weave or wobble at speed or in fast, bumpy corners, often from about 70 mph.
  • Bars wiggle and the bike feels vague.

Cause

With the Clevebloc swingarm bushings, the rear wheel can sway side to side as the engine moves on its rubber mounts, which riders call "rear steer" (Biker Rogue, "Swingarm Upgrade"). Worn rubber in the bushings and the two swingarm isolators makes it worse (HD Forums, FXR swingarm issue). The rest of the system, three rubber mounts and two stabilizer links, also needs to be in good shape (Rider, Sep 2017).

Fixes

Sources

#8

Walking inner primary race

1985 to 1994 and CVO

From 1985 on, the inner primary bearing rides on a race pressed onto the transmission mainshaft. With a stock motor that usually works. With a stronger motor the race can walk. If it moves in, it chews up the main drive gear seal and the transmission leaks. If it moves out, the primary leaks. Baker and JIMS both sell a sealed bearing kit that does away with the loose race. If the inner primary is off anyway, do the left side transmission seals too.

Symptoms

  • Transmission oil leak at the main drive gear.
  • Primary oil leak at the inner primary.
  • Most often on engines built for more power.

Cause

The inner race 34091-85 has been used on Big Twins since 1985 and press-fits on the mainshaft. Baker says 100 hp plus engines can make it walk: inboard it damages the main drive gear seal and the transmission leaks, outboard the primary leaks (Baker, High Torque Bearing Kit). On stock bikes, a race or seal that was not seated to the right depth during assembly also leaks. Harley Tech Tips #30 (July 1992) records a larger main drive gear spacer with a matching new seal, 12067 in place of 12050, which must be used as a pair (H-D Tech Tips #30, July 1992).

Fixes

Sources

#9

Heavy clutch pull on early Evo FXRs

1984 to 1986

Early Evo FXRs can have a stiff clutch, and a tired cable makes it worse. Before you buy anything big, fit a good cable, route it with no sharp bends and lube it now and then. A clutch spring set too tight also adds effort, so check it against the book. If it is still heavy, owners have moved early bikes to the later ball and ramp release using a 1987 or later trap door and the matching parts. You do not need a whole new transmission.

Symptoms

  • Heavy clutch pull and a sore hand after a long ride.
  • Cables that feel notchy or wear out quickly.

Cause

Owners point to the early release design, a dry, kinked or poor quality cable, and a diaphragm spring set tighter than the book (HD Forums, ball and ramp upgrade). The exact year the ball and ramp release reached the FXR is unverified; owners say a trap door from a 1987 or later FXR works.

Fixes

Sources

#10

Inner cam bearing

1992 to 1994 and CVO

Inside the cam chest, the Evo cam rides on a needle bearing pressed into the right case. From 1992 Harley used a caged needle bearing here. It usually lasts, but on high mileage or neglected motors it can come apart. When it does, needles and gear chunks go everywhere and the repair can cost more than the bike is worth. Any time the cam cover is off, put in a full complement bearing from Torrington or S&S. If you are fitting a performance cam, do not skip it.

Symptoms

  • Often no warning before it fails.
  • Oil light, noise, then broken cam and pinion gears and debris in the cam chest and crankcase.

Cause

Rider lists a caged needle bearing for the camshaft from 1992 and calls full complement Torrington bearings a required retrofit when changing cams (Rider, Sep 2017). Fix My Hog calls the stock caged INA bearing the weak point of the Evo cam chest, prone to failing on high mileage or poorly kept engines, and shows a 1995 engine where it took out the bottom end (Fix My Hog, blown Evo cam bearing). What earlier Evos used is unverified.

Fixes

Sources

#11

Starter spins but will not crank

All years

If you hit the button and the starter just whines, the motor is usually fine. The trouble is between the starter and the clutch shell. Check the battery and cables first, then pull the outer primary. Look at the starter drive pinion, the ring gear teeth on the clutch shell, the outer cover bushing and the jackshaft coupler. A missing coupler is a common mistake after a rebuild. 1989 and later bikes use a different starter and jackshaft layout, so order parts for your year.

Symptoms

  • Starter whines or spins free without turning the engine.
  • Starter engages, then drops out.

Cause

Common causes are a worn starter drive or jackshaft pinion, worn ring gear teeth on the clutch shell and a worn outer primary bushing (HDTimeline, "FXR Starter question"), or a jackshaft coupler left out during assembly, which also stops the jackshaft bolt from tightening properly (Geoffrey Bund, "The Jackshaft"). Rider lists a new "compound" starter for 1989 (Rider, Sep 2017), and owners note the jackshaft setup differs from 1989 on (HDTimeline, "FXR Starter question").

Fixes

Sources

#12

Cracked engine case O-ring lip

All years

Where the inner primary bolts to the left engine case, a thin raised lip on the case holds the big O-ring that seals the two together. That lip can crack in the O-ring groove or break off, and the crack can be hard to see. The result is an oil leak at the joint between the inner primary and the case. Shovels and Evos both do it. You may not have to split the cases: James Gaskets sells a Crankcase Saver gasket that seals on the flat faces instead of the lip. Welding or new cases are the full repair.

Symptoms

  • Oil leaking from the joint between the inner primary and the left engine case.
  • A leak that comes back after a new O-ring.
  • With the inner primary off, a crack in the O-ring lip or a piece of it missing.

Cause

The lip is thinnest at the bottom of the O-ring groove, and that is where it cracks. Owners report it on all years, sometimes with a crack more than halfway around that is hard to see (V-Twin Forum, "EVO case issues"; HD Forums, crack on primary lip). Causes owners cite are inner primary bolts working loose, an engine and transmission that are out of line with the inner primary so the housing pulls on the lip as it is bolted up, and impact (V-Twin Forum, case lip sheared off; V-Twin Forum, broken O-ring lip; HD Forums, "Left engine case surprise"). One experienced owner says it happens on built, high output Evos (HD Forums, crack on primary lip); how much engine power adds to it is unverified.

Fixes

Sources

#13

Wet sumping after the bike sits

All years

Park an FXR for a few weeks, fire it up, and it spits oil out of the breather and the air cleaner. That is wet sumping. Shovel and Evo engines keep their oil in a separate tank, and a small spring loaded check ball in the oil pump is all that stops the tank from slowly draining into the crankcase. Some seepage after long storage is normal. If it happens after a few days, or it never clears, the check valve needs attention. Ride it often, let it clear before you check the oil level, and if it keeps happening, clean or lap the check ball seat and fit a new ball and spring.

Symptoms

  • Oil pours or blows out of the breather or air cleaner in the first minutes after a start, after the bike has been parked.
  • Smoke from the exhaust at start up.
  • The oil tank level looks low before the first start, then comes back once the engine has run.

Cause

Shovel and Evo Big Twins are dry sump engines: the oil lives in the tank, not the crankcase. On these external oil pumps the check valve is a ball and spring under a slotted cap on the top left of the pump. When it does not close, tank oil seeps into the crankcase while the bike sits. E.R.T. says it is common for this pump to blow some oil out of the breather after long storage, and lists the causes when it keeps happening: debris in the check valve, a pitted ball or seat, a bad spring, the wrong cap bore depth (it gives .500 in.), plus stuck Evo rocker box umbrella valves, plugged drains, damaged pump gears, broken pump keys, breather gear timing and unseated rings (E.R.T. Products, wet sumping). At start up the scavenge side cannot keep up with the extra oil, so some goes out the breather. Owners add two more causes: a sheared oil pump key, and oil filter hoses connected backwards with an anti drain back filter (HD Forums, "Evo wet sumping ?").

Fixes

  • Ride it regularly. If it has sat, start it with the breather hose routed into a drip pan, check that oil is returning to the tank and that you have oil pressure, and let it run until it stops pushing oil out. Then set the tank level. Do not top up a cold tank after the bike has sat (HD Forums, "Evo wet sumping ?").
  • Service the check valve: remove the cap, ball and spring, make sure the seat is clean, round and not pitted, lap it with a new ball and a little lapping compound if needed, and fit a new ball and spring (E.R.T. Products, wet sumping). The fiche lists check ball 8873 and slotted plug 26263-80 on the FXR pump (1994 FXR oil pump fiche). V-Twin's 12-1487 kit (ball, spring and cap) is listed for 1982 to 1994 FXRs (V-Twin 12-1487 check valve kit).
  • If a new ball and spring do not cure it, check the other items on E.R.T.'s list, or fit a new pump (E.R.T. Products, wet sumping; HD Forums, shut-off valve for wet sumping).
  • Anti-sump valves: owners warn against a manual shut-off valve in the oil feed line, because one start with it closed can ruin the engine. One suggests an electric valve that locks out the ignition instead (HD Forums, shut-off valve for wet sumping; HD Forums, "Evo - Wet Sumping" p2). Inline one way valves are sold for other dry sump bikes such as British twins (Draganfly, anti wet sumping valve), but we found no maker listing one for the Shovel or Evo FXR, and one owner points out that oil can also reach the engine past the pump drive unverified.

Sources

#14

Weaker 1989 to 1993 Evo cases

1989 to 1993

Ask around and owners will tell you the earliest Evo crankcases are the best and the 1989 to 1993 cases are the ones to worry about. Two problems come up: the steel insert or race that holds the left main bearing works loose in the aluminum, and cases crack around the cylinder stud bosses. This comes from owner forums, not from a Harley bulletin or recall, so treat it as a reason to inspect, not a verdict on your motor. If an engine from these years is apart, check the left main bearing bore and every stud boss before you spend money on the rest.

Symptoms

  • Engine oil getting into the primary, often blamed on a seal.
  • Vibration and end play at the pinion shaft.
  • Cracks or weeping at the cylinder stud bosses at the base of the cylinders.

Cause

Owners call 1989 to 1993 the problem years for Evo cases and say the earliest cases are the best (HD Forums, Evo changes year to year). On roughly 1989 to 1991 cases, the steel insert that the left main bearing race sits in can come loose; one owner says the 1989 cases are known to crack there, and names the area by the oil pump and the cylinder studs as other weak points (HD Forums, "1989 design flaw"). Owners on V-Twin Forum describe the same loose insert letting oil into the primary, with vibration and pinion end play (V-Twin Forum, "EVO case issues"). Another owner says that from around 1990 the bearings were pressed straight into the aluminum instead of a steel insert, and one reports his 1994 case cracked at the cylinder studs (HD Forums, Evo changes year to year). These accounts do not agree on the details, and we found no factory document on it unverified.

Fixes

  • Inspect. With the primary off, the left main bearing insert should not move or seep at the joint between the steel and the aluminum (V-Twin Forum, "EVO case issues"). When the top end is off, look at each stud boss for cracks.
  • Replacement cases are the sure fix. Owners say Harley would supply new cases stamped with your original numbers if you sent in the numbered piece of the old case, and name aftermarket cases from S&S, Delkron and STD (HD Forums, Evo changes year to year; HD Forums, "1989 design flaw"). Whether Harley still offers this is unverified.
  • A machine shop can re-sleeve a loose bearing bore with a new, mechanically secured insert; owners report it as a repair, not a factory fix (HD Forums, "1989 design flaw").

Sources

#15

Evo cylinder studs: the 1994 change

1984 to early 1994

Evo cylinder studs went through a real factory change. The early studs locked into the cases with an interference fit thread, and owners blame them for studs that pull out or pull the case threads. In March 1994 Harley switched to a new shouldered stud, 16837-85C, that bottoms on the case at 10 ft-lb with thread locker. The bulletin says you can swap old studs for new ones as needed, so if a stud is bent, broken or suspect, put in the new style. If a case thread has pulled, get it repaired before any stud goes back in.

Symptoms

  • A stud that turns, lifts or will not hold torque when the head is torqued down.
  • Oil weeping at the cylinder base around a stud.
  • Head or base gaskets that keep leaking after a rebuild.

Cause

Harley Service Bulletin M-1043 (May 24, 1994) says all 1340 cc and XLH engines built on March 22, 1994 and later have new cylinder studs. The old stud for 1985 and later 1340 cc engines, 16837-85B, threaded into the case with an interference fit. The new stud, 16837-85C, does not; it has a shoulder, goes in shoulder end down, and is identified by thread locker on the first 6 to 8 threads (H-D Service Bulletin M-1043, 1994; H-D, replacement cylinder studs). Owners go further and say the studs were redesigned several times and do not seem to pull out on 1996 and later engines (HD Forums, Evo changes year to year). We found only the 1994 change documented unverified, and how often early studs actually pull out is unverified.

Fixes

  • Fit the new style stud 16837-85C shoulder end down and tighten it to 10 ft-lb so the shoulder bottoms on the crankcase. If a new style stud is removed and refitted, put Loctite 271 (red) on the case end threads (H-D Service Bulletin M-1043, 1994).
  • You do not have to change all of them. Harley says old studs can be replaced with new ones as needed, and a bent or broken old stud should be replaced with a new one (H-D Service Bulletin M-1043, 1994). Mark the new procedure in your service manual, which shows the old one (H-D, replacement cylinder studs).
  • Aftermarket: Colony 2442-8 studs replace 16837-85C for Evo Big Twins (Colony 2442-8 cylinder studs).
  • A stud that has pulled its case threads needs a proper thread repair before any stud goes back in. How it is done is a job for a machinist who has done Evo cases unverified.

Sources

#16

The gangster lean: a worn jiffy stand

All years

You know the look. Kick the stand down, and the FXR slumps way over like it is leaning on a wall in a music video. It looks tough in photos and it is terrifying in a parking lot, where a little slope or soft asphalt can put the bike on its side. The gangster lean is not how Harley built it. It is wear: a worn pivot pin and bushings, a worn tab on the stand or a rounded slot in the frame, a weak or missing spring, a bent leg, or the wrong stand for the ride height. Most of it is cheap to fix. A new pin and bushings, the right springs, and a stand that matches your shocks will get your FXR sitting proud again.

Symptoms

  • The bike leans much farther over on the stand than it used to.
  • The stand flops around when it is up, or hangs low and touches down in left turns.
  • The stand feels loose or wobbly at the pivot when you put weight on it.

Cause

The stand pivots on a clevis pin through a frame lug. The 1982 FXR fiche shows clevis pin 50009-82, two bushings 11404, a cotter pin, a jiffy stand bumper and stand 50069-82A; the 1994 FXR fiche shows clevis pin 50009-91, two springs 50005-85A, anchor bracket 50064-91, spring anchor 46995-91 and stand leg 50031-91 (1982 FXR frame and jiffy stand fiche; 1994 FXR frame and jiffy stand fiche). How far the bike leans on the stand is set by the slop in the pivot and by the tab on the stand that stops against a slot in the frame. Retraction is a separate job, done by the spring (HD Forums, jiffy stand spring). Owners report pins, bushings and pin holes that wear out, frame slots that get rounded so the stand swings too far forward, bent tabs and legs, and weak springs (V-Twin Forum, "Floppy" jiffy stand; V-Twin Forum, late 84 FXRT jiffy stand). On 1991 and later FXRs, which use two springs, the secondary spring bracket often goes missing and the stand flops (FXR Division spring bracket 50064-91). Ride height matters too. Owners say taller shocks make a stock stand lean more, and that the long shock models (FXRT, FXRP, FXRS-SP, Convertible) used a more upright stand (V-Twin Forum, "Jiffy Stand for FXR" p2; CVOHarley.com, "Best FXR Kickstand?"). The 1982 fiche lists a 50069 type stand on a base FXR, so check your own fiche unverified.

Fixes

Sources

#17

Runaway starter: a stuck relay or solenoid

All years

Safety first: if the starter keeps running after you let go of the button, pull a battery cable right away. Turning the key off may not stop it. A stuck starter pulls hundreds of amps through battery and starter cables that have no fuse, and owners have melted battery terminals and cooked cables this way. The usual culprit is the starter solenoid, sometimes the relay that feeds it. A weak battery makes it more likely, because low voltage makes contacts chatter, arc and stick. Keep the battery strong, listen for clicking or chattering when you press the button, and replace a suspect relay or solenoid before it sticks.

Symptoms

  • The starter keeps running after you release the button, even with the key off.
  • Clicking or chattering from the relay or solenoid when you press the button, often on a weak battery.
  • A hot or melted battery terminal, hot cables or a burning smell after starting.

Cause

The button powers a small starter relay, the relay powers the starter solenoid, and the solenoid's heavy contacts switch the battery straight to the starter motor. Sportsterpedia, writing about Evo Sportsters with the same layout, gives about 20 amps through the relay and about 200 through the solenoid, and warns that welded solenoid contacts make the starter run with no switch or fuse to stop it, so the battery can be ruined or burst (Sportsterpedia, Evo starter and solenoid). The main starter cables have no fuse or breaker (V-Twin Forum, starter issues on an 80 inch Evo). On FXRs, owners report starters that ran on with the key off and melted the battery terminal; in one 1989 FXR the solenoid's return spring had broken and the contacts stuck and overheated the wiring ends (HD Forums, "starter would not disengage"; HD Forums, 87 FXR starter keeps cranking; V-Twin Forum, "Starter will not disengage"). Low voltage: relay engineering articles say a relay below its minimum coil voltage can chatter, overheat its contacts and weld them (Assembly, "Cut the Chatter"; TE Connectivity, proper coil drive), and owners link burnt solenoid contacts to long cranking on a weak battery (V-Twin Forum, 1982 FXR starting issue). That a weak battery is what welds FXR relays is owner reasoning unverified. Fire: Harley did recall the starter relay on 1989 to 1992 Softails (NHTSA 92V180000) because it could short internally while the bike was parked and get hot enough to start a fire (NHTSA recall 92V180000); the UK recall fitted a better sealed relay and moved it away from moisture (UK recall RM/93/001). That recall did not cover FXRs and was not about weak batteries. An owner's starter cable has caught fire on a Shovel (HD Forums, burning starter cables), but we found no report of an FXR burning down from a stuck relay unverified.

Fixes

Sources

Related: Engines, Frame & Chassis, Identification and each model page's Known issues section. Know a common FXR problem we missed, or have a better source? Tell us.

Sources

  1. Harley-Davidson, Service Letter ML-271, Technical Tips, July 31, 1985, item 9 (late 1984 primary leaks and the clutch pushrod vent flat), page 5. Copy hosted by Sportsterpedia. Link
  2. V-Twin Forum, "Late 84 FXR oil leak at mainshaft" (owner and mechanic discussion). Link
  3. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1984 FXRS Low Glide, "Primary Housing 1984" (dealer online parts finder). Link
  4. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1985 FXRS Low Glide, "Primary Housing 1985 & Later" (dealer online parts finder). Link
  5. eHarleyParts, "Primary Housing Bearing Late 1984 FLT, FXR", part 8980 (listed as obsolete). Link
  6. WWAG, "Main shaft support bearings for Big Twin" (80-204 replaces OEM 8980 and 80-201 replaces 8975, both 25 x 52 x 15 mm). Link
  7. V-Twin Manufacturing online catalog, Big Twin 1984 to 2007, Primary page (12-0369 bearing for 8980, listed as 2 shield). Link
  8. HD Forums, "Wheel bearing sizes" (an old H-D bearing cross reference list posted by a member; origin unconfirmed). Link
  9. HD Forums, "Lowrider woes" (inner primary bearing fit; a post quoting the factory service manual). Link
  10. HD Forums, "Primary Vent", page 3 (primary venting through the transmission mainshaft). Link
  11. SKF, deep groove ball bearing 6205-2RSH, 25 x 52 x 15 mm, contact seals both sides (product page). Link
  12. NTN Americas bearing finder, 6205LLUC3 deep groove ball bearing, double contact sealed. Link
  13. NSK, Rolling Bearings catalog E1103, deep groove ball bearings (6205DDU, contact sealed). Link
  14. JTEKT Koyo, product detail, 6205 2RS deep groove ball bearing. Link
  15. Twin Power, mainshaft support bearing BC-6205-2RS, 25 x 52 x 15 mm, OEM 8975 (Dennis Kirk listing with 1984 FXR fitment). Link
  16. HD Forums, "Where's my Primary Bearing Inner Race??" (honed 6205 bearings for a slip fit; a stock 6205 is a press fit on the mainshaft). Link
  17. JIMS, instruction sheet for tool No. 967, inner primary cover bearing and seal remover and installer. Link
  18. V-Twin Forum, "1985 FXRS Primary leak". Link
  19. Harley-Davidson, Technical Tips #17, August 1989, "1990 Insights" (1340 mainshaft changed from a taper to a straight spline; clutch hub nut torque; pinion shaft change). Copy hosted by Sportsterpedia. Link
  20. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1982 FXR Low Glide, "Clutch" (hub 37550-41B, key 37523-15A; dealer online parts finder). Link
  21. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1984 FXR Low Glide, "Clutch - Early 1984" (dealer online parts finder). Link
  22. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1984 FXR Low Glide, "Clutch - Late 1984 & Later" (hub 37550-84A, nut 37496-84; dealer online parts finder). Link
  23. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1989 FXR Low Glide, "Transmission Gears" (mainshaft 35042-85, clutch key 37523-85; dealer online parts finder). Link
  24. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1990 FXR Low Glide, "Transmission Gears" (mainshaft 35042-90, no clutch key listed; dealer online parts finder). Link
  25. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1990 FXR Low Glide, "Clutch - 1990 & Later" (hub 37550-90A; dealer online parts finder). Link
  26. Andrews Products catalog, page 23, transmission shafts: 296800 (1981 to 1984 chain drive, replaces 35042-79), 296850 (1985 to 1989 belt drive, 35042-85), 296900 (1990 only, 35042-90) and 296910 (1991 and later, 35042-91). Link
  27. Rivera Primo, Pro-Clutch installation instructions (copy hosted by V-Twin Manufacturing): factory clutch hub nut torque by year and a tapered shaft hub removal tool. Link
  28. HarleyTechTalk forum, "Clutch hub nut" (tapered mainshaft; a 1978.5 to 1984 service manual quoted; clean dry tapers and key fit). Link
  29. V-Twin Manufacturing online catalog, Big Twin 1984 to 2007, Hub page (37550-84A hubs, reinforcement sleeves for hubs at the tapered end, reinforced steel center hub kit). Link
  30. Zodiac inner clutch hub, replaces OEM 37550-84A, with a tapered sleeve and reinforcement washer (Iron Stable dealer listing). Link
  31. V-Twin Forum, "Ok just got a fxr confused on tapered trans" (how the tapered hub works; the 1984 to 1989 hub cracking at the keyway). Link
  32. V-Twin Forum, "Broken Clutch hub-reason?" (1987 FXR; broken hub and a damaged mainshaft; nut torque and key fit). Link
  33. V-Twin Forum, "clutch hub broken" (key height and slot depth, steel center replacement hubs, locking the key in the shaft). Link
  34. V-Twin Forum, "90 tapered shaft in pre 90 tranny" (1990 only splined shaft swap, the old school hub fix, owner experience with tapered shafts). Link
  35. V-Twin Forum, "Tapered to Splined Shaft Conversion Write up" (1989 FXR converted with a 1990 only mainshaft and 1990 style clutch). Link
  36. HD Forums, "FXR transmission" (1988 FXR with a tapered mainshaft and Woodruff key; which splined shaft fits). Link
  37. HD Forums, Classic section, "Mainshaft upgrade" (1989 tapered to splined: gearset, clutch, starter and primary parts). Link
  38. Kip Woodring, "Motorhead Memo: Charge it", Rider Magazine, February 20, 2011 (stock charging output by year). Link
  39. J&P Cycles team, "Step By Step Instructions For Testing Your Harley's Charging System", RevZilla Common Tread, April 5, 2021. Link
  40. HD Forums, "Upgrading from a 22 amp system to a 32 amp system". Link
  41. HD Forums, "Stator plug issue?". Link
  42. HD Forums, "'82 shovelhead: external oil lines". Link
  43. Moto Gallery, "1982-1983 Harley-Davidson FXR Shovelhead Guide" (secondary buyer's guide). Link
  44. Harley-Davidson, Technical Tips #30, July 1992 (base gasket material change; main drive gear spacer and seal change). Copy hosted by Sportsterpedia. Link
  45. Harley-Davidson, Tech Tip TT254, "Evolution Style Base Gaskets", August 1, 2006. Copy hosted by Sportsterpedia. Link
  46. Kip Woodring, "Motorhead Memo: The Gentleman's Express", Rider Magazine, September 20, 2017 (year-by-year FXR history and VIN model codes). Link
  47. HD Forums, "Rocker Box Oil Leak". Link
  48. Rogue, "Swingarm Upgrade" (rubber-mount Clevebloc rear steer and a spherical bearing retrofit), bikerrogue.com. Link
  49. HD Forums, "FXR Swingarm issue (I think)". Link
  50. FXR Bazaar, "Swingarm Isolator Mount for FXR" (replaces OEM 47564-86B). Link
  51. BAKER Drivetrain, "High Torque Bearing Kit", PN 189-56. Link
  52. JIMS, "Sealed Inner Primary Bearing Upgrade Kit", 5-speed Big Twin 1985-2006 (dealer listing with fitment notes). Link
  53. HD Forums, "1986 FXR Evo 5SP - upgrade to Ball & Ramp". Link
  54. Mark DiPietro, "In The Shop: Blown Evo Cam Bearing", Fix My Hog, May 1, 2023. Link
  55. HDTimeline forum, "FXR Starter question" (1988 FXR). Link
  56. Geoffrey Bund, FXRP restore blog, "11/10/17 - The Jackshaft". Link
  57. James Gaskets catalog, page 119, primary cover gasket kits: Case Saver Evo, Big Twin, Twin Cam and Case Saver Shovelhead. Link
  58. James Gaskets online store, "Kit, Crankcase Saver, RCM, Shovel" (gasket and lock tabs). The store also lists RCM and Foamet versions for Evo. Link
  59. V-Twin Forum, "EVO case issues, what to look for", page 3 (cracked O-ring lip on the left case). Link
  60. V-Twin Forum, "Engine case lip at inner primary sheered off". Link
  61. V-Twin Forum, "Broken O-ring lip on L/S motor case". Link
  62. HD Forums, Shovelhead section, "Left engine case surprise" (1981 Shovel; aligning the engine and transmission to the inner primary). Link
  63. HD Forums, Evo section, "Crack on crank primary lip". Link
  64. Harley-Davidson Forums, "Hair line crack" (shop repair with a ductile iron ring). Link
  65. V-Twin Manufacturing online catalog, Primary, "Case Saver" page (inner primary repair gasket kits; also a nylon chain guard sold under a similar name). Link
  66. E.R.T. Products, "Harley Wet Sumping Solutions" (causes and check valve repair for Shovel and Evo external oil pumps), archived copy. Link
  67. HD Forums, "Evo wet sumping ?" (1989 Evo in an FXRS-SP build; oil out of the breather after sitting). Link
  68. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1994 FXR Low Rider Custom, "Oil Pump" (dealer online parts finder). Link
  69. V-Twin Manufacturing 12-1487, oil pump check valve kit (ball, spring and cap; listed for FXR 1982 to 1994), dealer listing. Link
  70. HD Forums, "Intalling a shoot-off valve in the oil line to fix wet sumping problem". Link
  71. HD Forums, "Evo - Wet Sumping", page 2 (feed line shut-off valves and other paths for oil into the engine). Link
  72. Draganfly Motorcycles, "Anti wet sumping valve 5/16, push on" (inline one way valve sold for British twins). Link
  73. HD Forums, "EVO 80ci engine improvements year to year?" (owner views on case years and cylinder studs). Link
  74. HD Forums, "1989 design flaw" (left case bearing race and steel insert on 1989 to 1991 Evo cases). Link
  75. Harley-Davidson, Service Bulletin M-1043, "New Cylinder Base Gaskets and Cylinder Studs", May 24, 1994. Copy hosted by Hammer Performance. Link
  76. Harley-Davidson, "Replacement Cylinder Studs for XLH & 1340cc Engines" (old 16837-85B and new 16837-85C studs). Copy hosted by Sportsterpedia. Link
  77. Colony Machine 2442-8 cylinder studs for 1983 to 1998 Evo Big Twins, replaces OEM 16837-85C (Lowbrow Customs listing). Link
  78. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1982 FXR Low Glide, "Frame, Rear Fork and Jiffy Stand" (dealer online parts finder). Link
  79. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1994 FXR Low Rider Custom, "Frame, Rear Fork & Jiffy Stand, FXR Models" (dealer online parts finder). Link
  80. FXR Division, "+2 Extended Kickstand" for 1990 and earlier and 1991 and later FXR models. Link
  81. FXR Division, "FXR Kickstand Secondary Spring Bracket 50064-91", 1991 and later FXR models. Link
  82. Dirty Customz, "FXR Cartel kickstand mount plate" (mounts a 1999 and earlier style stand and mount on FXR models). Link
  83. V-Twin Forum, "Floppy Jiffy Stand" thread (1985 FXRS; spring, pin and worn bore). Link
  84. V-Twin Forum, "Looking for late 84 FXRT jiffy stand" (rounded frame slot; a bolt used as a stop). Link
  85. V-Twin Forum, "Jiffy Stand for FXR", page 2 (owner notes on the two FXR stand types). Link
  86. CVOHarley.com forum, "Best FXR Kickstand?" (FXR3 with taller shocks; stand swap and an adjustable aftermarket stand). Link
  87. HD Forums, "Heavier duty jiffy stand spring?" (bushing the pivot block and building up the tab with weld). Link
  88. HD Forums, "Jiffy stand help" (a Dyna that leaned too far; loose bracket bolts and a welded tab extension). Link
  89. Sportsterpedia, "EVO: Engine Control", Starter and Solenoid section (relay, solenoid, currents and welded contacts; written for Evo Sportsters, same relay and solenoid layout). Link
  90. V-Twin Forum, "Starter issues on 80 inch Evo" thread (no fuse in the main starter cables; do not fit a bigger fuse). Link
  91. HD Forums, "starter would not disengage" (1989 FXR; solenoid return spring broken, contacts stuck). Link
  92. HD Forums, "87 fxr Starter keeps cranking after turn off key". Link
  93. V-Twin Forum, "Starter will not disengage" (1988 FXR starter that ran until the battery cable came off). Link
  94. V-Twin Forum, "1982 fxr starting issue" (relay location and click test; burnt solenoid contacts). Link
  95. Assembly magazine, "Switches & Relays: Cut the Chatter", August 1, 2006 (low coil voltage, contact chatter and welding). Link
  96. TE Connectivity, white paper, "Proper Coil Drive" (low coil voltage, low contact force and tack welding). Link
  97. NHTSA, recall 92V180000, Harley-Davidson, starter relay, 1989 to 1992 Softail models (FXST, FXSTC, FXSTS, FLSTC, FLSTF, FLSTS), reported December 14, 1992. Link
  98. Vehicle-recall.co.uk, Harley-Davidson Softail recall RM/93/001, March 1, 1993 (starter relay short; sealed relay, moved). Link
  99. HD Forums, Shovelhead section, "Keep burning up solenoid to starter cables..." (a starter cable that caught fire; relay test). Link
  100. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1982 FXR Low Glide, "Starter Switches" (dealer online parts finder). Link
  101. Harley-Davidson parts fiche, 1994 FXR Low Rider Custom, "Switches & Circuit Breakers, FXR Models" (dealer online parts finder). Link

About the unverified flag: it marks a detail we have not yet been able to confirm in a published source, such as a factory document, owner's or service manual, or period magazine test. Where a table cell shows only the flag, we have not found a reliable figure. We keep these details visible so they can be checked. If you have a source, please tell us.

Full bibliography and image credits: Sources & Credits. Magazine pages are linked, never copied or hosted here. Spot an error? Tell us.